Jump to content

My Slabby lives


Macduff

Recommended Posts

I was registered on the old site back when I first picked this 750 slabby up but lost the account and email address used so registered new . I didn't do much with it in the mean time , carbs needed bits , cleaning , setting up, front brake calipers were goosed and needed a full set of pistons/ seals . It's just passed the MOT and been taken for a short test run to make sure it didn't fall to bits or explode. Seems ok bit gravelly on the overrun that goes when clutch is pulled so might be some clutch basket related chatter. Carbs could probably do with fine tuning as it flat spots slightly on gear changes after closed throttle, but it's seems to pull well if not startlingly  fast from 3~4K rpm. Hard to tell how well its revving out as rev counter starts to sulk once it gets to 7k rpm but trys to catch up if you hold it a higher revs. Rides nice for a 30 year old bike. Ps its originally an 86 jap import G but at some point was fitted with F bodywork. 

IMG_2599.JPG

IMG_2601.JPG

Edited by Macduff
Fudge
  • Like 10
Link to comment

I have the F belly pan unfortunately it touches the pipes when fitted. It has the G or later front fairing subframe so fairing mounts don't allow the F sides and belly to line up the mounts on engine/frame. I have a set of later bodywork that needs painting I'm tempted to get that done , though also on the lookout for a F spec fairing subframe as I do prefer the early fairing belly pan style.

Link to comment
5 hours ago, KATANAMANGLER said:

Hello and what took you? ;)

Getting it to start without resorting to witchcraft.. :) by which time the brakes had seized and battery expired .. also treat it to new airbox rubbers as the old uns were harder than iron. It starts /idles a lot better with the airbox connected though think my ignition leads/coils are showing their age as any damp on  them makes it misfire or become a pig to start and keep running.

 

Edited by Macduff
  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

After being well impressed at how the slabby copes with the local rippled and generally shietely surfaced roads we have locally I've decided to treat to some bits. The exhaust fitted was a Lazer road legal  system probably from back when slabbies' weren't long gone from showroom floors and despite its being mild steel headers it hasn't suffered from much rot with most of the black chrome? paint still being attached. However the can is slightly tweaked on the inside and its mount slot for the captive nut is split so probably a ride away from falling off (it nearly did on my 1st test ride) . I've been letching over the re-made Yoshi  Cyclone stainless systems and given the (slight) issues with the fitted one (and it'll rot up 'ere in the sodden north) I decided to spend the housekeeping funds on one. Decided to go for all stainless rather than the more expensive Carbon or titainium cans as its cheaper and probably a bit more roboust(?) Fitting was far easier than it was for me when I fitted a Yoshi cyclone to my FZR1000 back when were they current.

IMG_2657.JPG

IMG_2660.JPG

Edited by Macduff
  • Like 6
Link to comment

Just back from a short test run.. It sounds much better than the Lazer exhaust which I though sounded very strangled. It seems to be flowing much better as its now showing its gone a bit lean, will try a small tweak of the idle mixture screws and lifting the needles one groove to see if that sorts it as its mostly just off idle and before full throttle that is feels a little flat.

Link to comment

She's a looker  - the colours suit the bike really well ..... good choice with the housekeeping money, okay you might get a bit hungry, but look at that exhaust !!!  worth a grumbling stomach any day. The trouble with food is that it only lasts a short while, whereas the exhaust is the gift that keeps on giving - shitty horrible day outside - no problem, polish the bike and look contentedly at your exhaust....

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Eureka! I have eventually managed to get all the fairing on and removed all the previous owner(s) bodged bits that fudged how it fitted together.  After many attempts to fit the full front fairing I realised there was no way it was going on and mounting properly to engine and bottom frame mount points as Suzuki intended. It came to me with some alloy bits that moved the cylinder block mount point forward an inch or so and the bottom frame mounts weren't used at all so the belly pan swung in the breeze of the engine side panels waiting for all the mounts to crack and fall off. I found the reason eventually was it had been fitted with a 1100 slabby front fairing subframe and mirror stay which pushed the front cowl forward and upwards compared to where it should have been. I located an F rear mirror stay as NOS but didnt find an F faring subframe but found a G one (off Eblag) . This all seems to have allowed the belly pan and side panel to hook up with the correct mounting points for the 1st time in all the years I've owned it.  :D ..

I had to seriously hack the belly pan to clear the Yoshi system at the trailing edge of RHS belly pan for link pipe clearance and a large hole underneath so the 4-1 collectors could poke through with the front bottom lip (and its metal clamp) being cut out to clear the front of the headers. I reused the clamp on the bottom at the front to stop it coming apart. I didn't  feel too guilty hacking original F belly pan bits as mine had been glass fibred into one piece and has a few gel coat cracks showing. if they were pristine panels I may have looked at aftermarket panels to chop up.

IMG_2675.JPG

IMG_2673.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

A bit more fiddling has occurred . Upped the idle mixture setting in a fudged best guess manner as I don’t have a 90deg screw thingy to help with cold starts. I ‘m not sure the choke cct is working (at all) as it seems to hinder starting but that’s for another day to worry about. Main reason for posting was I’ve fitted H4 LED headlamp bulbs. Tested against a wall in dull daylight and they appear brighter than the halogen ones fitted (std wattage and old) and have a good cutoff so no random beam scatter on low beam . Haven’t tested in the dark yet as it’s now phishing down and tonite  was going to be a short run over some local unlit NSL roads. Fitting was piss easy once I worked out which way up they went. Though the big rubber covers won’t go back without being savaged with a Stanley , they aren’t really needed. 

5F04D93B-230E-4A41-8967-6D25C136E868.jpeg

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

It seems that as the air temp drops my slabby gets harder to start and this morning it just wasnt having any of it. Pulling the choke out just makes it worse. So given that seems to be fekked I richened the idle mixture screws to about 2turns out (2out on the outer carbs and somewhere about that on the inners ). And success it starts though the rich mixture now makes getting a decent idle a problem with revs rising and falling by a few hundred revs. So if I win the lottery over Chrimbo do any of the mikuni RS carbs fit the stock airbox trumpet rubbers? I was thinking the RS34 carbs given its a stock 750 , or I could pull the VMs to see if the choke cct can be unfucked, shame as all the other ccts  on the carbs seem to be working great. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...