fatblokeonbandit Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 We shall see Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) I like these blundercat footpegs but they were 70mm and my frame 63mm spacing so a mate cut and shut them.. blue spot brakes on the rear need longer torque arm.. im sure the purists wont like this but fek' 'em Edited September 23, 2017 by fatblokeonbandit 3 Quote Link to comment
clivegto Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Nice progress like the rear sets. Am als thinking of using a blue spot on the back. Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 Got hold of a late gsxr 1000 radial master cyl and a cable clutch set up from a krapaski, both with very shiny ASV levers, total out lay £80can you spot the slight problem!! 2 Quote Link to comment
SiBag Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Are they colour coded for left and right... 1 Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 port and starboard actually shipmate, I just got the colours wrong 1 Quote Link to comment
stellafella Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I've got rid of bad colour /faded anodising with a bit of caustic soda in a glass jar for a few minutes. came out a nice raw flavour. Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 16 minutes ago, stellafella said: I've got rid of bad colour /faded anodising with a bit of caustic soda in a glass jar for a few minutes. came out a nice raw flavour. That's the plan Stan Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 On 04/10/2017 at 7:52 AM, stellafella said: I've got rid of bad colour /faded anodising with a bit of caustic soda in a glass jar for a few minutes. came out a nice raw flavour. last week I also got rid of some anodising - also got rid of the alloy it was attached to - - and half the wall thickness of the glass the stuff I used was put in not sure what the stuff is ( unlabelled container found lurking in an old farm shed ) - but it smokes when you take the lid off - works a treat cleaning alloy that has stuck to a pencil grinder burr! - seriously good shit Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Shiney M and P bolt-on bling style anodising will come off if the part is left in a caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) solution for about 3-4 minutes, then rubbed with wire wool. Caustic soda granules are freely available as it's a common drain cleaner. It's a strong alkali but treat in the same way as handling acids. Hard anodising takes a bit more effort to remove and the same process needs to be repeated multiple times. If the part is left in the solution for too long, the solution will begin to dissolve the alloy itself so this is why it's best to repeat a 'short soak' several timnes rather than leave the part in the solution for longer if hard anodising is being removed. Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 2 hours ago, nlovien said: last week I also got rid of some anodising - also got rid of the alloy it was attached to - - and half the wall thickness of the glass the stuff I used was put in not sure what the stuff is ( unlabelled container found lurking in an old farm shed ) - but it smokes when you take the lid off - works a treat cleaning alloy that has stuck to a pencil grinder burr! - seriously good shit Do you mean the solution you used actually dissolved part of the glass container? If so It may be hydroflouric acid. Quote Link to comment
SiBag Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 42 minutes ago, Dezza said: If the part is left in the solution for too long, the solution will begin to dissolve the alloy itself so this is why it's best to repeat a 'short soak' several timnes rather than leave the part in the solution for longer if hard anodising is being removed. Just a quick question, @Dezza Would it be advisable to give is a dip in vinegar to neutralise the caustic soda, or would just a quick rinse with fresh water do ? Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Yep, as Clive says water is fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jaydee Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Put a spoonful or two of bicarbonate soda in the water. It helps break down an acidic or alkaline reaction quicker. Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 22 hours ago, Dezza said: Do you mean the solution you used actually dissolved part of the glass container? If so It may be hydroflouric acid. yes, very much so - half the glass wall gone below the fluid line and even the glass above the fluid has been etched - like a bathroom window - just read up hydroflouric acid - thanks for the heads up - not stuff to play with! Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 1 minute ago, nlovien said: yes, very much so - half the glass wall gone below the fluid line and even the glass above the fluid has been etched - like a bathroom window - just read up hydroflouric acid - thanks for the heads up - not stuff to play with! Yes, that sounds like hydroflouric acid. It should be kept in plastic and clearly labelled. It gives off a poison gas when it reacts with most substances too. Definitely not something to keep under the kitchen sink. Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 3 minutes ago, Dezza said: Yes, that sounds like hydroflouric acid. It should be kept in plastic and clearly labelled. It gives off a poison gas when it reacts with most substances too. Definitely not something to keep under the kitchen sink. loud and clear - thanks! Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 2 hours ago, nlovien said: loud and clear - thanks! I'd swap containers. Pronto!!! If that glass bursts in your hand...you're fucked! Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Yep, it's nasty stuff. If you haven't seen it already I'd recommend Breaking Bad. Walt uses it prolifically throughout all 5 series. It's effects are exaggerrated for entertainment value, which were tested, for more entertainement value, in one episode of Myth Busters (obviously the sort of shit I like watching....). Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 On 06/10/2017 at 12:20 PM, Swiss Toni said: I'd swap containers. Pronto!!! If that glass bursts in your hand...you're fucked! back in its original container - to be treated with respect but going to keep it - so bloomin good at cleaning burs / files that have been contaminated with alloy Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 I already have some cuastic soda, that is what i planned to use......... anyway I suppose i will need to change gear at some point??? so on with a mark 2 600 bandit sprocket cover, the slight problem I had was the yamahmahamahamah gear change lever has a different spline to the oilly cooled shaft..so i had to use the gsxr one, m6 female one end and ,8 left hand male the other???? found some ally and me left hand taps, the rod looked like something from a 70's chopper that Viz would like, so i tonced it up a bit, and now we can change gear 1 Quote Link to comment
fatblokeonbandit Posted October 21, 2017 Author Share Posted October 21, 2017 Plan B for oil cooler head cooler on top and main cooler underneath, just enough room 2 Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 coming along nicely - lots of time and brain consuming detail bits that are often the cause of many a project sulking - after the big bits are done- keep going dude Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Nice, Tidy solution as I hate the ones hanging below or above the headlights ! Quote Link to comment
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