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New bandit???????


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As MB says above. Depending on what the powder coating is on, it can be removed by heat. If it's on steel and heat treatment is not going to bugger anything up, a great way to remove powder coating is to chuck whatever needs stripping on a bonfire. This worked brilliantly the last time I stripped some PC. When cooled down anything still on just drops off when brushed lightly with a wire brush.

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15 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:

I used loctitte gasket remover on a swinger 2 years ago, worked really well but was expensive, :$ im trying to find cheaper alternatives, this dicholoromethane stuff is OK but evaporates quickly and stinks.O.o

FB, have you tried adding some of the DCM to some paint stripper? The problem with paint stripper not working is because DCM has been removed. The consistency and other chemicals of the paint stripper, with DCM back in, should work in unison to work as paint stripper of old. Because paint stripper is a gloopy gel, you may not get the problem of the DCM evaporating quickly, especially if you cover the part covered in the paint stripper (with added DCM) with newspaper or cling film to reduce the effects of drying.

 

An acetone/cellulose thinners mix kills paint but I haven't tried it on PC. You can fill a container with it, drop your part in, and then put a lid on it and leave it overnight. Maybe worth a try . This concoction really stinks but not if you use a Force 8 mask with chemical filters (not as expensive as you may think). I use mine all the time and wish I bought one years ago.

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4 minutes ago, Swirl said:

I was stripping a harris frame so I didn't want it blasting and didn't want it going in a bonfire, brushed powerstrip on it, left it to bubble and it peeled off with a stanley blade in a handle

I agree, putting a bronzed welded/ braised frame on a bonfire is probably not a good idea.

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So the power strip  stuff contains 0.1% DCM, the DCM I have is 99% pure!!!!!! so buy mixing it together I should make a really strong stripper, :D so what percentage ????  how much to add before I make something that will explode/poison me....B|

I will get some of it and some decent masks and have a go, we have a ventilated parts washer at work with a hood so ill do it there I think. just to be safe...O.o

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9 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:

So the power strip  stuff contains 0.1% DCM, the DCM I have is 99% pure!!!!!! so buy mixing it together I should make a really strong stripper, :D so what percentage ????  how much to add before I make something that will explode/poison me....B|

I will get some of it and some decent masks and have a go, we have a ventilated parts washer at work with a hood so ill do it there I think. just to be safe...O.o

I would experiment with different concentrations of additional DCM. Take some of the 0.1% paint stripper and make some approximately 10 times more concentrated, so you have a gloopy gel of 1% concentration. It may not sound much but in the gel form it will stay in contact with the paint for much longer than the 99% stuff, as the 99% stuff is much more volatile and evaporates quickly. If that doesn't work you could try increasing the concentration.

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this is the exact stuff I used to strip a harris frame - I also used it to remove a twin pack epoxy fuel tank liner

downside ? - there's no "sticky" viscosity to it so tried things like wrapping a cloth wetted with it, hands on keep working it with steel wool ( until yir fingers go numb with frostbite ) - made up a flour paste emulsion - they all worked to some degree - if you can immerse the part in this stuff - no problem, no paint or plastic, 2nd was the frostbite fingers

and if it fails you can at-least destroy a few brain cells by sniffin it 

http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Methylene-Chloride-Dichloromethane-99-5-10-Litre-10L-/302407462129?hash=item4668e3acf1

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1 hour ago, nlovien said:

this is the exact stuff I used to strip a harris frame - I also used it to remove a twin pack epoxy fuel tank liner

downside ? - there's no "sticky" viscosity to it so tried things like wrapping a cloth wetted with it, hands on keep working it with steel wool ( until yir fingers go numb with frostbite ) - made up a flour paste emulsion - they all worked to some degree - if you can immerse the part in this stuff - no problem, no paint or plastic, 2nd was the frostbite fingers

and if it fails you can at-least destroy a few brain cells by sniffin it 

http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Methylene-Chloride-Dichloromethane-99-5-10-Litre-10L-/302407462129?hash=item4668e3acf1

That's the stuff I have, im going to mix it with the power strip and see what happens:tu

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It will probably be a good idea to be very careful working with concentrated DCM. This stuff will be absorbed directly through the skin and is used in cell biology as a solvent for flourescent dyes to stain some biological structures (this is when I have used this stuff), as it allows the dye to penetrate deep into the structure so it can be seen easily under a microscope. The vapour is probably not as bad as many other common organic solvents but latex gloves are required in labs when this is used. It should get your PC off though when you get the correct concentration in the DCM-free paint stripper.

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Will be OK then, especially if using it outside. I will be very interested to know how much 99% DCM has to be added to what is now sold as 'paint stripper' in order for it to actiually remove paint. I have some so-called industrial stuff but it still doesn't work as well as Nitromors did 25years ago.

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