bluedog59 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Thanks Paul ( I really must sort out decent camera). Just a little update with the footrest hangers I've done, I'm quite pleased with them. I've now got to sort the mounts onto the frame and for the rear master cylinder. I think I'm going to have to adjust /alter the bit that will push on the m/c to get the angles/ratio right. Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 The more I look, the better I like it! Some great ideas there. Looking forward to seeing it finished! Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 It looks better in the flesh than in the pictures, and it looks good in the pictures Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 Thanks Paul, I've been dicking about will the footrests trying to get them just right and it was nice to wheel it out so I could actually sit on it. Getting nearer to being sent off for a tank, the one on it is, sort off, the right shape but the proper one will be shorter and lower. 1 Quote Link to comment
vizman Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 21 minutes ago, bluedog59 said: ........ tank, the one on it is, sort off, the right shape but the proper one will be shorter and lower. ....i was thinking 'that tank would look bang-on if.......' Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) 11 minutes ago, vizman said: ....i was thinking 'that tank would look bang-on if.......' And hopefully a man who draws for a living would have a good "eye" for that sort of thing. Edited March 5, 2017 by bluedog59 Sticking "a" key on laptop. Doh !! Quote Link to comment
Fugly Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Hi Bluedog, I've just found your project and looks really impressive, well done. Hopefully will be starting my own homebuild later this year and would love to have a look at your and learn from some of the things you've done. Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 On 2017-5-3 at 9:58 AM, Fugly said: Hi Bluedog, I've just found your project and looks really impressive, well done. Hopefully will be starting my own homebuild later this year and would love to have a look at your and learn from some of the things you've done. You're welcome to come and have a look sometime, just drop me PM. Quote Link to comment
Gixer34 Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 On 01/02/2017 at 6:41 PM, bluedog59 said: Thanks. I'm going to make those carbs work but I'm going to have to make some more new inlet stubs to mount them, o well, sigh. A friend of mine got some inlet stubs from an american/canadian model to fit flatslides to his race bike ,they were a different size to the british model. I'll find out the details if you want. Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 The problem is not bore size, it's positioning. Do I re-rack the carbs to fit the rubbers or make stubs to fit the carb spacing ? I have a set already stripped to re-space and a very good set in one piece, either/or, which way do I go ? I'm thinking do some stubs, I already have carb to stub rubbers and a set of flanges that fit the head so I just need to join the two with an angle to adjust the spacing. Feel free to dive in with any ideas/suggestions. Quote Link to comment
Gixer34 Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 3 hours ago, bluedog59 said: The problem is not bore size, it's positioning. Do I re-rack the carbs to fit the rubbers or make stubs to fit the carb spacing ? I have a set already stripped to re-space and a very good set in one piece, either/or, which way do I go ? I'm thinking do some stubs, I already have carb to stub rubbers and a set of flanges that fit the head so I just need to join the two with an angle to adjust the spacing. Feel free to dive in with any ideas/suggestions. Re rack the carbs. Surely adding bits in will lengthen the inlet and create issues? I don't know Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 Actually it's the length from valve seat to the end of the inlet tract that's important and, as I've lost some of that by running K+N's, adding a little back in maybe helpful. Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 brilliant - got loads of questions but 1st carbs: a real nice aspect of your frame design is you seem to have a decent clearance for the carbs ref: the frame rails = you got room to think about a bit of porting / downdrafting fo the carbs - i.e. raise the port roof and port angle - kinda daft thing you note after the frame is built - ideally you want to keep the flow as straight as possible so best try re spacing the carbs to match std stubs anyway - looks like your using tig for welding - and a steel rods - can you confirm on your pipe material grade / wall thickness and what rod spec your welder is using, I doupt its been post weld heat-treated but did he post weld heat it up and let it slowly cool to aid easing out any weld stress's - and or, did you build the welds gradually by stitching around the chassis parts or did he full weld each joint then move on to next - - -reason for asking is, quite a few folks do, or would like to do such things and armed with the web you tend to find a rather lack of detail knowledge from folks who have actually done it and made it work, plenty nae slayers armed with the text book who tend to fear you with post apocalyptic devastation should you even consider trying part jest - but seriously, any info you can pass on ref: how would be great knowledge shared Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 On 2017-1-24 at 8:55 AM, bluedog59 said: I'll explain the strange rear end of the subframe as things go along but if anybody wants to take a guess............. 1st thoughts were a rear cooler with fan ducting ala Beneli or Britten, however noted a bit of templating going on in the usual place, soooo - given the choice of swing arm with a convenient scallop out of the RH side - me thinks twin under seat silencers ? Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) Ok. First off, I'm no pro at this so I've over engineered this. I'm not bothered about the final weight as it's mainly an exercise in "Can I do it". My prime goals are,1. That it's straight.2. It's well made. If you can't hit those two points then there is no point in using fancy light tube and, as it's my first go, I've used seamless mechanical grade steel in 35mm and 28mm x 2mm wall (the top tube is 60mm, headstock 75mm ). It is TIG welded with steel filter rod, I'll ask my mate for the filler spec but its nothing fancy. Pre and post heat treating ? Nope and not needed I don't think. The best way to avoid stresses and distortion is to make the tubes a perfect fit before welding, if you're welding up a gap it's going to contract and distort/stress. I've cut my tubing on a jig I've made for the milling machine and used a hole saw, the fit being good enough that you could almost fusion weld them with no filler. The joints were tacked round each piece to be done and then finished in an alternating order to avoid heat/distortion/stress. Result ? Frame is less that 0.25mm out front to back. If you want a go at your own frame....... Do it. Things I have found vital ? Make a good/straight jig. Read/look at established frame designs and engineering methods/principals. Set your standard higher than you've done before and stick to it. Never slip into "that'll do". Order more tube than you need, you'll make mistakes. Nope, no under seat pipe or cooling. Edited May 28, 2017 by bluedog59 Fooked if I can get it to line up and read straight. Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 1 hour ago, bluedog59 said: Nope, no under seat pipe or cooling battery then Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 Nope. More about the seat/bodywork although there will be electrics tucked in there. At the moment I'm toying with the idea of putting the battery on top of the top tube at the back/under the tank. Reason ? I'm thinking of putting a second radiator where the battery is at present so I can make the main radiator a little smaller to give extra front wheel clearance on full bump. The spin off bonus would be that it would actually make the water plumbing easier from the back of the block, through the thermostat and up to the filler. Now I've finished my Hospital bed/bike bench I'm going to give it some time tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Paulm Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Glad to see its still moving along Rob, have to pop round for a look and catch up sometime soon. Quote Link to comment
nlovien Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Thanks for reply, ok the rear loop is going to be covered in alloy sheet for an old school cafe race look ? Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 This is becoming more of a puzzle than it merits. The seat is going to be a pretty normal alloy seat hump/undertray but fits inside the frame work (sort of exoskeleton ). It will hold all the usual gubbins, cdi,relays,toolkit,Scottoiler but will have hidden mounts so it looks like it just hangs inside the frame. 1 Quote Link to comment
bluedog59 Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Bonus !!!! Just picked up an RF900 motor with a head problem, snapped off plug and a possible dropped valve (different cylinders). All the rest of it looks good so I MAY be able to fix it with 1 piston and a 750 head. Cost of said engine ? £0. 3 Quote Link to comment
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