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About MeanBean49

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    Club Hammer
  • Birthday 10/11/1982

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  1. Ignition advancers

    It does make a difference, even more so if you run super unleaded or even avgas. Standard ignition timing is set on the safe side to allow good running on all grades of fuel. Crap fuel and more advance dont go well. Advancers also kill bit of bottom end power by being too advanced for low revs. As above best bet is to use a programable ignition and play about till you get the best results
  2. Quick cam question

  3. Ball bearing turbo's

    IHI vf22 + vf23 are ball bearing turbos, and are really good. Direct replacements for TD04's. The 22 is good for lots of power, the 23 good for decent power and huge midrange. Got on on my spondon, makes 280bhp and 200lbs ft at 15psi. Only downside is they are really expensive to rebuild if the bearings go.
  4. B12 turbo mk2 oil cooler options

    Big main cooler, seperate head cooler, both mounted up where headlight normally is for max airflow. And a big intercooler where the cooler normally is. Just about keeps it cool enough on trackdays at 12-15psi. I wouldnt want to run any less cooling if its going to get a lot of fairly heavy use
  5. Oil cooler mountings

    Peraonally i have mine solid mounted, my big cooler has a bracket top and bottom with no support between the ears, and my smaller one is just mounted by the top mounts again with no support between the ears. Not been a problem for 5 years of quite heavy use. The only time ive ever had an issue was when i ran a big 19 row on my bandit and to save money i only bought a top bracket and fixed it only to the top ears. It cracked and pissed oil everywhere. I guess its the vibration and flex with it being a big heavier cooler, whereas the small head cooler i have is probably not heavy/moving enough to matter.
  6. Like Dunc says its not a straiightforward swap, Srad/TL/Busa and earlier K-series gsxrs all have a different sprocket offset to slingshots. Oil boilers are 100mm and the rest 110mm you need to account for this somehow otherwise you cannot have a central wheel with correct chain alignment. Easy soloution is a 10mm offset front sprocket if theres clearence. I use K series wheels and i had to do a lot of machining of wheel and carrier. I got 5mm that way, run a talon rear sprocket backwards got another 3 and there was space for a 2mm spacer behind front sprocket. I believe its easier to machine the outside face of the srad/tl/busa carriers than k-series. Other ways you can get clearence is using a 520 chain and sprockets, and spacing the front sprocket by the difference in sprocket thickness. Another tip is I always measure from the center of the standard wheel to the inside face of the sprocket and the centre of the wheel to the outside face of the sprocket carried spacer. You can then compare to the wheel you want to use. Sometimes the sprocket offset is ok but the sprocket carrier itself is too wide to get wheel central. I believe this is the issue with the Triumph 675 rear wheel
  7. Slingshot racer- where to put crash bobbins?

    If your going with the 1st pic, i would recomend not putting anything on the rear footpeg hangar. They arent that strong, in a hig speed crash your just increasing how far in the hanger will go. Could end up it damaging the wheel/tyre. I would rather just scuff a seat panel
  8. Slingshot racer- where to put crash bobbins?

    As Rick said. The sticky out ones on the front engine mounts are ok in slow speed crash's if you want to protect your bodywork. But when its a bit faster it can wreck the frame and crank cases. (I have done it) Front spindle, rear spindle and fairly big flat ones on a plate secured to the rocker shaft plug caps help the bike slide and not trash the important bits at the expense of the bodywork
  9. dot head on 1052

    If you havent got got dot head cams, dot head swap is not really worth the effort. Its the cams that give most of the gain. Personally im not a big fan of the dot head swap at all. Dropping the dit cams in a stock head is normally goid for 10ish bhp, your only looking at 12-15 for the whole head swap, then you have the different inlet angles etc that can mess with fuel tap clearence on some frames.
  10. Best rear wheel size?

    Rear I have is 4.5 and straight, Done a bit or research. Seems 1st gen bandit 600's are curved, 2nd gen are straight, probably the same rear wheel as Sv650
  11. Best rear wheel size?

    Yeah 160 is fine on 4.5. Bandit wheelis 3 spoke but straight. Gsxr ones are curved 3 spoke
  12. Best rear wheel size?

    That does make the decison easy then. Lol. Good excuse for an 11 motor then too
  13. Best rear wheel size?

    Imo all depends on power output of your motor. Up to 120ish bhp a 4.5 is more than up to the job, go much more than that and your better off with a 5.5. Ive never needed to go any bigger than 5.5, even on my turbo. Trade off is 5.5 slows the handling down a bit over 4.5.
  14. 1200 bandit newbie chasing some more power!

    Couldnt agree less on the handling thing where its a road bike. A bandit 12 handling is goid enough to scrape the pegs and bend the brake and gear levers on track. Which is more handling than your ever likely to need on the road. You can always use more power and a bandit chassis is more than capable of handling over double the stock power without issue.
  15. 1200 bandit newbie chasing some more power!

    With £400 i would look at getting an ignitech cdi, some gsxr 750 cams, pod filters, race can and some dyno time. Should be good for 125-130bhp Personally i dont see the point in whole dot head swap. For 15bhp when you get 10bhp from the cams on there own without the extra work, cost and getting round the issues with different carb angle. Plus if you go big bore in the future the compression gets too high with the DOT head. Better off just having standard ported at a later date.