Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

66 Excellent

About slingy1157

Personal Information

  • Location
    Brisbane, Australia
  1. B12 turbo project

    Is that a FBM kit? Looks really good by the way
  2. Busa pistons

    Hi dave. The 750 went 1052, then 1157 then sold so i no longer have it. But definitely get back to yours and get it sorted. Efi rocks and ironically was the one element that always worked ok on all 3 engines lol
  3. Busa pistons

    Got my gsxr750 short stroke rods bronze sleeved to fit zx10 pistons. No dramas woth it
  4. Turbo bandit

    I never had problems with oem style gaskets
  5. Turbo bandit

    Yep. Datalogs will tell you everything you need to answer this. What does the map sensor read when static? And what map sensor do you have and is the right one selected to suit in the software. If a gm style map sensor, alot advertised as 3 bar aren't. You need to google the part number and check. 1 , 2 and 3 bar gm map sensor all look the same so be carefull.
  6. Methanol

    I worked with a guy here in oz, and he built a cheap drag car with a 4 cylinder motor, mechanical FI and a huge turbo. He actually filled the block and head water passages with resin to stiffen the block. And as has been said, i do remember him saying there was no over heating problems because of the methanol . Mmmmmm........Resin filled methanol WP running big boost?
  7. Trigger Wheel Guide

    On a normally aspirated bike you could probably go really ghetto and use the tach out of the oem ignition module as the input reference to the mS. Then use the tach out from the mS to run the tacho again for fuel only. Save trying to diode and resistor a clean tach signal off the coil negatives. I wonder if you could use this as a crank signal and by adding a cam sensor then use the Ms for fuel and spark with the stock trigger wheel? Interesting......... .
  8. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    Good work. If the fuel height is about the same as gravity i dont you should lower the float height for the moment. Just do what your talking about and change one or 2 things at a time.
  9. Turbo bandit

    That is actually a really good idea. Theres no reason why it couldnt be a like a 36-6 wheel and have 6 missing teeth really. As long the first tooth after the gap is still 5 teeth or more before TDC so it can work out the timing nicely for 1 and 4 it dosnt really matter. I still like the 36 tooth wheels as it keeps the math all nice and easy with 10deg per tooth and all that and gives really good timing reference to the ecu. And as one of the main issues is sync durring cranking with these then why not make the gap bigger so absolutely unmistakable at cranking. You can set it to whatever you want in TS so thats no drama as long as the teeth on the wheel are all the same size and evenly spaced to begin with it dosnt matter how many teeth get removed qithin reason to make the gap.
  10. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    Ok so to throw another slight spanner in the works here with the gravity test. The gravity pressure at the floatvalve is directly proportional to the height of the fuel not the volume. So an 8mm pipe with the end held 1metre above carbs and then filled with fuel will give the same pressure as a 5 litre fuel tank full of fuel with the fuel level 1metre above the carbs. So the key point here when doing a gravity test is that whatever fuel tank you are using, the fuel level needs to be about where it would be if it were in the oem tank on the bike. So if using a temporary tank, it would be better hung from the bars or similar to better replicate the oem setup. If you have it hung too high you might get a couple of psi of gravity pressure anyway. Which is not what this test is about. Its about trying to get an oem base line setting so you know what to adjust to compensate for the pressure.
  11. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    Yeah mine looked fine but didnt stop flooding untill i replaced all 4. An expensive exercise on the old bst36 carbs as you had to buy the whole plastic float and frame assembly to get them . Carbs really do need to be in 100% as new condition, not just clean. ANY wear seems to be greatly exaggerated by the fuel pressure and boost.
  12. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    Good work mate. Cant beat actually seeing what is going on. I would be questioning those gravity fed levels. I would of thought, looking at the carb design that the gravity level would be about halfway between the two marks you have. So they seem rather low. The 2.5psi marks are about what i would have expected. On my carby build using a modified webber fpr i think, i drilled out the fpr return right from the seat through, as i had an 8mm return line but couldnt get the pressure below about 2.5 either as the actual seat hole was about 4mm and was having flooding issues. I also ended up leaving the spring out. And i used 2 relays to run the pump, so it only ran while the engine was cranking or running. Much safer as if you drop the bike the pump will stop and not pump fuel everywhere as well as not subjecting the carbs to pump pressure for any longer than necessary and I'm not a fan of listening to winey pumps without the engine running lol
  13. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    I found new old stock plugs on Eblag from the us and ended up buying a dozen at a time as ngk's seem to die for a pass time as has already been mentioned. I could even park mine up running good and come back to it a few weeks later and struggle to get it running due to dead plugs. On a side note, i had an old dirt bike with a self tuned 2 stroke. It ran great on an old Champion plug i plagged from an ancient boat engine. Twice i thought, i really should give it the propper plug, and twice they died within literally seconds of running. I ended up just running the old Champion plug which it just bloody loved for some reason. Keep at it. If it was easy, everyone would do it lol
  14. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    Are running the GK76a carbs? If so the standard float height is 20mm. Looking at the float design and measuring point, at 23mm there is a real chance the float is jammed between the float bowl and the valve and there is no movement left to let fuel in.
  15. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    With the float height 2 things to remember. 1. You lower the float height because the fuel pressure has increased from virtually only 0.25 psi of gravity pressure from the tank to 2psi of regulated pump pressure. So now more force is required on the float valve to hold back the fuel. This extra force can only be generated by the float displacing more fuel to create more buoyancy . So imagine, for a given set float height, as the fuel pressure goes up, the fuel height in the bowl will rise as the buoyancy of the float needs to match the force required to hold the float valve shut. So by lowering the float height ( as viewed durring normal opperation or an increase in the float height as measured with the carb upside down and bowl off) at increased fuel pressure we are only really returning the fuel height in the bowl closer to factory levels and definitely should not be lowering the fuel level. 2. Every type of carb will vary wildly with how they handle the fuel pressure. One of the best ways i think is to put a bit of clear pipe on the bowl drain And open the drain with the pipe run up the side of the bowl. With everything factory, mark the fuel height on the outside of the bowl. Then with reg and pump running, use the clear pipe and adjust the float to try and match the original mark or just slightly higher. Should be alot quicker as saving any guess work. You will see what is happening and it will be set correct for any given pump, reg gauge, combo .