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gmseed

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  1. Thanks for all your replies. I've used the Simoniz Tough Black paint before and it is good. So, think I'll go with that after stripping back to the metal. Simoniz Tough Black is also good as it doesn't need a lacquer. In theory brake fluid should never touch the outsides but brake fluid is a devil !
  2. I have a 1985 GSXR750-F and the clutch and brake master reservoirs on the handlebars are looking a bit tatty, probably from the corrosive brake/clutch fluid eating away the paint over the years. My question is whether anyone knows which of the following is the authentic solution to making them look like new: 1) To have them powdercoated. 2) Spray them black and then lacquer them, satin lacquer I presume. 3) Spray them with a tough paint such as PJ1. Also, the correct finish is satin and not gloss - right. Thanks Graham
  3. @wraith- thanks for the moral support! The DVLA have always pissed me off.
  4. Thanks for your comments. It may sound a bit harsh calling them a bunch of wankers but my experience of the British Civil Service is that they quickly forget who it is that pays their salaries and puts food on table in the evening. In my opinion, as a taxpayer, when I say jump they should say how high and tell me I can come down! A while back I spent several days putting together what I thought was a full-proof case of over 20 pages proving that the bike had to be manufactured in 1985. After nearly a month and a half they write back with a letter consisting of 1 sentence (I kid you not) saying "our records are correct". Absolute fecking timewasters that want taking round the back and shooting. Then again, I was a punk teenager and have not been able to deal with authority since!!
  5. I have a Jap import GSXR-750F that was clearly manufactured in 1985 by Suzuki's own frame and engine ID system. Now, the DVLA in their wisdom have the bike listed as manufactured in 1996 on the VC5. Why is that? I wrote to them to say that this is incorrect as anyone with any knowledge of motorbikes knows it was manufactured in 1985, but being the know alls they are they say that "their records are correct". It is interesting that the governments own data contradicts itself. If I enter the registration number into their online MOT checker it states a year of manufacture of 1985. But they appear not to be interested in anything I tell them. Has anyone else got experience of dealing with these arrogant bunch of wankers?
  6. BTW, I don't know about you but I always resent having to pay £2+ for daft little washers and clips. Take the £1.45 fuel hose clip at Suzuki Vintage Parts: Fuel Hose Clip As a result I am always seeking out alternative suppliers of such everyday items. I recently discovered a UK company called HCL Fasteners, who supply a range of hose clamps; eg: HCL hose clamp Ah ... 15p for an 8mm hose clamp is more like it! The only problem with HCL Fasteners is that they have a minimum order of around £7, if my memory serves me right. So, I bought 10 of each of a whole range of spring band type and double wire type. Hopefully, I'll never have to purchase any ever again! Just a tip that I thought might be useful and save you a few £ in the long run. Also, if you live in the UK another great supplier of nuts and bolts and fasteners is GWR Fasteners: GWR Fasteners who make all of their own products here in the UK. You can buy from them direct via their website or e-bay shop. A £2.29 nut from Suzuki Vintage Parts ... I don't think so!!: £2.29 Nut
  7. WeMoto sell neoprene fuel hoses for around £6/metre. I recently bought some for my 1985 GSX-R750. Although aftermarket it is of good quality. WeMoto Fuel Hose
  8. It looks correct how you have it butting up against the shoulder. I've just had a look at Figure 17 (Part No. 23, 23163-05A00) in the Parts Manual, but hard to tell. The maufacturer's mark and seal info typically faces outwards. Can you see the seal markings when fitted? Cheers Graham
  9. @bernardoThanks for your reply. I smeared GunGum on numbers 2 and 3 collets, pressed them onto the downpipes, wrapped some masking tape around and then left the gum to harden for an hour. I then removed the masking tape and with the collets held nicely in position I lifted the exhaust into place; with the help of Her in Doors! After temporarily securing numbers 2 and 3 collars I then fit the collets for 3 and 4, again using a bit of gum. So, if anyone else is doing this job GunGum is the trick!
  10. Just had an idea! Loctite the collets onto the stepped flange of the exhaust. Even if it later melts and runs it can't run into the exhaust mouth and crap that up and can only run downwards along the down pipe. Also, such small wuantities of loctite are needed anyway. Cheers, and thanks for your help. Graham
  11. @DuckndiveThanks. I'll think about using thin wire. The only problem is that the collets sit on a stepped flange that once the collets are added fits exactly into the cylinder head. I'll have to work out the exact dimensions so that any wire doesn't prevent the collet from entering the chamber and compressing tne gasket fully, and also doesn't damage the exhaust mouth. But if the wire was thin enough it might work. Maybe the thin wire could be pulled out once the collets are 80% the way in, by way of winding the wire tight but not locking it. So, with the front wheel pointing upwards and the 2 inner collets wrapped with thin wire, hopefully I'll figure it out.
  12. Umm... Not what I had in mind! I'm not looking forward to this job! Having said that I do have an ABBA stand with the attachment for lifting the front wheel off the ground, so will definitely do that and try and get the wheel as high as I can. Their skylift would be good for this job.
  13. Hi Just removed the exhaust for spraying from my 1985 GSX-R750 as the previous owner had let it get rusty. On removing the exhaust I could imagine how tricky it would be to reinsert the semi-circular collets, and thought I'd post a thread as I'm sure this is something forum memberd have done time and time again. So, any advice welcome as to the best way to insert them. It looks like I could insert the outer (numbers 1 and 4) collets fairly easily but can imagine the inner (numbers 2 and 3) are tricky. For numbers 2 and 3 I was going to smear some copper grease (to help grip) on the insides of the collets and then wrap electricians tape around the larger diameter and to ensure they don't get pushed out during installation also add a temporary taped collar behind them, and then once in position carefully remove the masking tape before sliding up and tightening the bolted brackets. Or, if this fails I was thinking of simply fiddling with a pair of long tweezers. But, if someone knows the best and right way I'd love to hear from you. Thanks Graham
  14. Hi I recently purchased a 1985 GSX-R750F that was originally developed for the Japanese market and later imported to the UK. One of the first things I noticed was that it came without the side stand switch, but has the red Japanese writing icon on the dummy lights panel. I managed to purchase an original switch but the bracket (part no. 42361-27A00) that attaches it to the frame is no longer made and so made my own. I then removed the seat and side panels naively expecting to see an unused dangling connector for the green/white and black/white 2 wire connector. There was no such connector I could see. So, my next job was to remove the tank and nose cone and start chasing it back from the dashboard. However, it suddenly occurred to me that maybe this model never had a side stand switch and may not have the associated wires in the dashboard. Thus, I thought I'd ask before delving deeper. Has anyone else done this job and encountered the same issue or know what's going on? BTW. I studied the wiring diagrams in the Haynes Manual and see that the UK models were not shipped with a side stand switch, whereas the US models were. However, the manual says nothing about Japanese models. Thanks Graham PS. If anyone has a spare side stand switch bracket they'd like to donate to a good cause or sell then I'm all ears!
  15. @yyt and @E T- thanks. Sounds like they'll simply shake out. You'd think German supplier Metisse would say this, but suspect they don't give a shit like many companies today.
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