Gixer1460

Unlikely to blow-by as there are 4No holes, all at 90 degrees to each other.

Don't take as gospel but I think the 1100 is 21 pins and 750 is 22 ? ? ? Brain is old and memory fading + i'm not near a manual presently!

Waste of time and due to proximity to cyl. head or upstream of turbo (depending on style chosen) would likely fail in short order! A single sensor after turbo is usual placement but be warned if running a shortie dump pipe the sensor can be confused with atmospheric oxygen due to sensor being close to exhaust exit! Try not to fit before turbo as pressure and elevated temps not good for them!

You do realise that if you get it 'bob on' for sea level riding, with the added weight / drag / power loss at altitude - you might not get home again? Won't comment on potential jetting as there are far to many variables in play. But that outfit and your situation almost cry out for an EFI conversion - self adjusting for altitude!

Draw through comments all fairly valid IF using a carb solution! Most, if not almost all go away, if you use an injected solution. Plus Draw Through is Oldskool Cool!

I've had 4 Dyna 2K's - still have one on my 1460 and never had a problem but others have - maybe the far east production had an effect ? But the Ignitec is newer tech and reports are good about them plus made closer to home if there is a problem. Haven't used one or even seen one fitted so thats the limit of my recommendation!

I think (believe) this one (in the centre) to be either GSX750ET or GSX1100EFE. The one on the right is simple Neutral only. If the drums do rotate in different directions its sort of clear why you don't get all the outputs ( i'm almost surprised you get any!)

Could try 'Turbo Dynamics' down in Christchurch, Dorset. They are rebuilders and have always had mainstream stuff for me, usually in stock.

I was just thinking that myself. The arc the shift drum pin takes is usually worn into the 'switch' and if you are lucky there might be wear spots for 2,3 and 4. First and 5th should be obvious as last places in the 'track' in either direction. Drill through with 3 or 4mm drill and epoxy in some 3 or 4mm brass rod, flatten off over sheet of wet & dry (engine side) and solder wires to brass on outer side. Once done, coat with epoxy to seal. Don't forget all the outputs will be to ground, so bulbs in the indicator should have common 12v+

Blandit . . . . at a guess?

Which is fine if you never want anything other than spring pressure boost otherwise you have to add a bleed valve or solenoid valve into that line to bleed pressure to 'fool' the WG actuator into thinking the higher boost is actually lower. And in answer to someone above - actuators are very rarely bolted directly to turbine housings, even where internal WG's are used, the actuator is usually bracketed off the Compressor, or fixed on a short stub pipe to avoid heat AND facilitate mounting!

Could be anything these days if no markings! Carillo only laser etch numbers - no stamping. Chinese 'cheap' copies use bolts marked ARP . . . . . but aren't. You paysyer money and rolls the dice!

I did, and it had the gear indicator, that's why I assumed an 1100 ET did also! Obvs not it seems!

Here is the page from Robinsons for info - part # 36 inc part numbers with superceded one also.

I say . . . . . best to check !