Having some experience of WEC can I pop in some notes.
It's worth remembering that the bars and pegs are integral crash protectors, that you can't actually do without, so best use them to the max.
You want them to deform slowly, absorbing energy as they bend. The trick is all in the type of alloy used if you want to survive.
7075 is very strong and is often quoted as the material used, but it's brittle on impact, 6082 is a better choice as it is much more elastic. Can be a good choice for Yokes as well, better to have a set of yokes that can bend as opposed to a really stiff set that just leaves you with forks that have snapped off at the bottom yoke. It makes getting the bike mobile again a lot more difficult.
Is worth looking at your lock stops, a nylon bung mounted on the headstock casting that stops the fork leg is better than a lump on a yoke and a stop on the frame. Nylon to metal will distribute the loads and impact energy a lot better.
Next trick is to make a triangle of the contact points,so that the bike can slide on it's side. You also want to protect the oil cooler, so set of bungs mounted off the front mount is what I would do. I think the trick here is to fit a set of tough engine covers and then match the length of the bungs to make the o/all width the same, not sticking out to protect the fairing.
A long/strong lever that sticks out of the side, is just begging to hook into a kerb and start the bike flipping and cartwheeling.
Oh and those bits of hose around the end can, just fashion. The original idea of these is that you have a couple of loops of fencing wire wrapped around the can with the hose to stop it destroying the finish on the pretty can. The wire is twisted into a rope and tied onto the subframe, in an off that trashes the exhaust hanger you can keep going for a while without the can going walkies.