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About nlovien

  • Rank
    Ball Peen Hammer
  • Birthday 02/17/1961

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    United Kingdom
  1. TLs new clothes

    och yir just up the road - used to run and party with a few lads from Elgin area - mind that was back in the days when a GS1000 was main stream and a TS250 was for beginners i'm getting close with a project that will need a fresh paint - would you be interested
  2. TLs new clothes

    Scotland + got a great attitude with bikes + yi can paint - - gets a triple fae me - where in Scotland are you ps no laughing - got a lot of respect for those who give it a go - good on yi, even if its half baked its still better than a cheque book charlie
  3. Slabbie arrives ...now what

    can't nail it - its kinda a cross between Dennis the Menace and a touch of the Papa Lazarou about it certainly got a look
  4. 1216 and cam slotting

    what a breath of fresh air seeing folks doing / discussing proper stuff on a bike forum - I can imagine maybe 3 typical replies you would get on other ones 1) whats a sprocket or 2) ohh I wouldn't be doing that - all sorts of horrible things are going to happen if you do 3) cool - where can I also buy this cam timing you speak of
  5. New Gs owner

    aye fond memories flat oot on a mates gs750 ( i'd just stepped up to a TS250) fook this things scary quick then another mate went past on his GS1000 sooo life's progress by passed the 750 enjoy yours
  6. 1200 bandit newbie chasing some more power!

    once you've got decent handling to your liking ( sounds like you do ) - on my list next would be a decent set of carbs - a set of smoothbores in replacement of CV,s - £400 marginal but should be enough to go fishing for 2nd hand set - good thing is you gain on immediate fitment plus they add to any future development - and they are cost recoverable when you come to sell on
  7. 1200 bandit newbie chasing some more power!

    without knowing your reasons why and what i'm in the johnr camp - if your not into track days - still focus handling and tyres - stuff for free is drop the forks 5 to 10mm, for not a lot adjustable dogbones to let you play with rear ride height, a 3 tooth larger rear sprocket to give you some free performance and if yir tyres are good then look for a half decent rear shock
  8. Frame building

    aye Tony, the templates work when you know where your going and you can jig bend in 3D and replicate parts to an exact template when you have a curved cross brace that is going to miter into 3 different locations or your shaping tube by eye in 3D from a 2D paper template - a nibble here and a nibble there as you work the pipe in is the only way I can get it to work lacking the patience to design on paper, then build jigs to enable transfer of design into metal - i.e. think twice cut once - na, cut once, cut twice - scrap it and start again until it works
  9. Push pull throlttle, what are you using

    thats my coat !
  10. Turbo plumbing for a simpleton

    bloomin ek this can really do your head in trying to think out CV carbs with a variable positive pressure supply - home work time but i'll ramble on anyway you got holes to create a pressure diff to enable lift and you got holes to bleed off ( balance ) to enable a controlled lift inline with fueling needs bigger balance holes = quicker equalisation = no lift when it does - too small holes here and it lifts too quickly - out of sync with the carb jetting circuits - you would have thought by going down main jet - if it was too small holes i.e. getting a main jet slug of richness too early, you should have seen more improvement with smaller mains - ok then is it as you suspect = holes too big, balance too quick - slide not lifting to enable transition to mains - makes sense since you didn't get a measured response by lowering the mains - i.e. is it ever getting to the main jet - wonder if you removed it completely would you see any difference on the dyno ? - no if all its doing is fluttering around the needle fueling only - so suggests smaller balance holes bit I can't get my head around is pressurising the venturi - this also pressurises the negative pressure to the top of the piston via the engine vacuum route = the press diff hole - so i'm thinking your relying on positive venturi pressure to lift from bottom versus engine draw to suck from top as said i'm guessing as I go -- anyway -sooo in this case you want to vent the top of piston to atm. to create press diff to enable lift - now again though - if the balance holes are too big - but now relative to the atm vent hole size then its like above ok so you need to match the equalising hole size to the atmospheric vent size, the bigger the vent is relative to the equalisation the quicker it will lift - but it needs to sustain boost to achieve this - it can't sustain boost if it ain't working hard and it can't work hard if you can't get it to transition via lift from N/A to positive pressure and it will not achieve this if the vent size is too big for the engine vacuum to work holy shit this can get complicated - but the same point seems to keep coming back - smaller equalisation holes = plug off / reduce the holes in the slides i need a dram
  11. Dyna 2000 vs Ignitech

    +1 for ignitech - got their 2D system - and a dyna 2000 on another bike -both do the same job - ignitech does it cheaper however i'll be swapping for their 3D unit - TBH in this day and age we'd be mad not to - its all gain gain via not suffering partial throttle ignition hold back that you get with a fixed 2D system and yi can dial in retard to aid starting big CC high comp engines whats not to like about it ??? - we need more folks doing this - writing the maps so the rest of us can plagiarize
  12. GSX1100 E?

    this ones not quite finished - once they fit a set of knobbly trail bike tyres - job done there is a simple style that these bikes work brilliantly with - bike of the month sept and April 2017 are two nice examples
  13. Newbie - GSX1100 resurection

    nice one - this version of the GSX, for me is the one in the background that deserves more respect - best style out of the lot
  14. Help with flat side tuning

    brilliant - its a love hate thing that is a key reason why we torture ourselves with these bloomin bike things - we hate them when they don't work, but we love them all the more when we manage to sort it - Robert Pirsig's buddy with the BMW doesn't know what he's missing
  15. Help with flat side tuning

    i'd be checking that when idle the throttle cam is 100% sure closing against the idle stop - not hanging on the cable also - my previous comment ref: ilde screws was misleading - on these carbs the idle adjustment screws are kinda like a mini throttle - they are not mixture adjustment screws like on some other carbs - they adjust how much of the mixture goes in -- sooo if your say at 3/4 turn adjustment close it down further - say down to 1/4 turn only - ok it will not idle, so now open the throttle cam via the main idle adjustment screw = basically your changing the relationship between idle jet and throttle cam - see if this helps - and try it the other way i.e. more idle adjustment screw / less throttle cam but always ensuring the cam does stop against the - stop another thing to check - if you've got filters fitted make sure nothing is blocking the idle air jets at the mouth of a carb venturi edit: just had a play with this - if you find you've got a stumble just as you pick up throttle then you've wound the idle screws in too far - on my AFR gauge it idles nice at almost bang on 14 but if you then open the throttle it goes to 20+ = open the idle screws up