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About nlovien

  • Rank
    Ball Peen Hammer
  • Birthday 02/17/1961

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    United Kingdom
  1. my quest to become a winged hammer

    friend has a CMR RS1000 replica frame - very nice you spent wisely
  2. A few parts I've made for the build so far

    gut feel is - you are one of us who gets the satisfaction in building a bike - as much from taking on solving and making the long list of parts with the tools available to you - each part is in itself a job done, the sum of the parts leading to a complete bike is the end game but not the goal - really appreciate this and for me its a key part to the success of this forum that attracts like minded " quality bodgers" - end result will be a bike that can be looked over with interest taking in all the unique individual parts more so than the sum of parts / complete bike ps - 100% agree, cost of argon is a real burden - keep yir joints as tight as possible so your fusing parent to parent without filler using a smaller tungsten and flip the cables and revert to stick for any bigger none fussy stuff - brazing / alum TIG is very Argon hungry - preheating helps speed things up / reduces argon consumption - my "moto" for this is - cost of argon is just one of them need things - like bog roll, you just have to have it
  3. master cylinder

    Ron - for the want of maybe a bracket to match the mount holes - that rear brake M/C is just a typical example of just about any of them - noting that its a 14mm bore piston i.e. maybe adapting any half decent 14mm one could be a better route - maybe your keen to keep things as was a quick peek on the bay and you'll find chinese assemblies c/w reservoir and brake link for less than £15 - or loads of 2nd jap / european bike ones for not much more
  4. Dogbones/rear shock knuckle bolt replacement?

    you don't need to be making a hard grip on the side - this can give you a false indication thats its good ( gripping on side versus supporting through the hole ) - key is to get a nice snugg no play fit of the bolt through the hole - I rarely achieve this with a bolt - they are just not ID/OD matched - so I make a bush - so you make the bush length = to or a tad slightly longer than the width of the ball - so when you nip the bolt up it shoulders on the bush - not the ball If you machine a stud to match fit the ball ID then achieve the same by making the stud shank length = to or slightly longer - as above but don't think that by gripping tight on the sides it will prevent chatter in the suspension if the bolt OD isn't a tight fit on the ball ID - it will work loose quickly
  5. master cylinder

  6. master cylinder

    aye see pic of a typical one full of crud, what you see here in front of the big hole is just the dimple pocket the wee hole is centred on- under all the crude is the tiny pin prick of a hole that needs clearing
  7. master cylinder

    in your master cylinder there is two holes - one is obvious, the other is a tiny pain in the arse slightly fwd of the big hole- sounds like the small one is blocked ( what you describe is what happens ) you need the thinnest of needles to poke wiggle and generally work its way through this hole - it can be blocked by alloy corrosion crud hence why you sometimes need to work it - I don't stop until I see the tip of the needle coming through into the MC piston chamber it is important to clear this hole - this is where any brake fluid thermal expansion bleed off occurs - without it your brake can lock on as it heats up
  8. Fork ID

    early 80s yamaha 750 Seca ( yeuk ) only ones I know of that had both a leading front axle and an anti dive device located rear below the axle axis -
  9. Slabby VM29 Flatslide Carbs

    appreciate also the detail - this issue is also there with RS carbs, or at least I've got measurable rod wobble on mine
  10. Dogbones/rear shock knuckle bolt replacement?

    at M14 x 2 I don't see an issue with SS ( use it myself - no issue) - always wary of HT bolts in a cyclic shear position ( stress fracture ) - std 8.8 is best overall one thing to watch for - if your using track rod ends - often had an issue getting a sleeve fit with a std bolt through these things ending with a bit of free play chatter in the whole suspension link set up - sorted by making to fit bolts or using undersized ones and making a sleeve
  11. Finished until the Winter

    very nice - we all got our preferences, for me, this is the best of the GS / GSX1100 styles and yours is a great example
  12. Dyna 2000 ignitions

    If you have a well tuned engine on a std ignition @ WOT then stick a 3D ignition in then you may not see any dyno improvement - @ WOT - i.e. you could say your not going to get a bigger pub talk dyno figure, however for most of us we spend very little real time @WOT or only when its safe to do so ( i.e. down the straight ) - getting the drive onto the straight, or where most of us are = the part load condition that we typically don't tune for - kinda daft really when you think about it - now we can and what you describe "he just comes off the corners so good" is part of it - limiting negative tuning due to - knock / pinging is another good one - you don't now need to hold back the whole engine op. range due to say a relatively small rpm window in the midrange If they are not using a TPS - I think you can still map via an air mass sensor, might even be a better solution dunno but either way, the whole thing is based around the ECU now knowing more than RPM input ( 2D) - it now knows RPM + some form engine load input (3D) some great feedback ref: use of dyno - can imagine this could put some folks off the idea ( idea of cost / hassle / fear of imminent engine destruction )- it is also easy to play with this mapping via seat on bum + ears ( for tinkling sounds ) - ok maybe not to the same level of gain via a dyno - but definitely better than not having it at all, best in order to get the mass's converted is the sharing of proven base maps - maybe knocked back a few degrees as a precaution
  13. Dyna 2000 ignitions

    would be neat if you could write up a bit of blurb on why being able to map relative to throttle position / load as an alternative to a typical fixed ( full throttle ) map system - especially on the older air cooled motors / combustion chambers - suspect there's more to be gained than what is initially obvious be nice to see this evolve where the topic of map exchanges become part of it
  14. Hunting at Steadyy Cruise

    or maybe a smaller airjet for the pilot circuit ( I think with these carbs - not sure - the idle needle is a volume control and the mixture is via the air and fuel jet ) I see CV,s more as load condition versus rpm / throttle position - steady cruse = you could get an idea if its needle versus idle - if its cruze on light load - idle, same but now climbing a hill say = needle - i.e. watch your throttle position as you hold the cruze relative to the load needed, if you note your having to open up to hold the cruze and this is where its fluffy - needle - if you find your backing off to hold the cruze and its fluffy = idle also - you maybe hovering around the point of ignition advance - dam't hassle if its a fixed ignition curve - maybe an ignitech 3D system with a TPS is what you need