Jump to content

luke2152

Members
  • Posts

    117
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

61 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Location
    Manchester

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I used your table exactly as shown for nearly two years and its been working fine. Today I had bike on dyno at SPR racing and Sam the owner (Sam is two stroke guru doesn't know too much of turbos) called his friend who does a lot of work on turbo bikes, who insisted I shouldn't use more than 24 degrees advance at full boost. Needless to say I was pretty happy with the timing I got from Arttu but I tried taking 10 degrees out of the table above 100kpa and smoothing just out of curiosity. The results? Pretty much made no difference which has completely boggled my brain as how can such that is a huge change to the timing have no obvious effect on the torque and power curve. Perhaps my ideal number is in the middle at around 29. Bike was a bit hot for any further dyno play at that point so didn't get to experiment.
  2. Sorry for late reply mate. Yeah went well. Just went over the cracks and got a friend to do some of the hard to get at bits. Warped the header a bit and was hard to get back on but I suspect now its had a few heat cycles it will have shaped itself back to the way it was.
  3. An unusual thought I had on venting the crank case. Could i vent the hoses straight to the exhaust about midway (I have a full exhaust). The idea being that the exhaust would work as a venturi to keep a negative pressure in the crankcase. But also that any sludge would get boiled off or burned up. Not sure how it would work in practice - whether it would be hot enough and whether it would smoke like a bastard.
  4. I seem to remember someone telling me you could assemble bandit clutch with 2 stock diaphragm springs? Is it true. I think I have a spare one somewhere. And I'll put a bit more on the lock up arms. Seems strange that I did 1500mile on synth with no slip and within 100mile of putting mineral in it started slipping. Would expect the opposite.
  5. I realise this is similar topic to another current thread. Bandit 12 with TD04@1 bar as per my build thread. FBM lockup. When I'm giving it some and the revs are up the lockup does its thing and no clutch slip. When I'm being lazy and just roll the throttle open in top gear, as I hit full boost before the revs are up it slips. It didn't do it before and strangely enough it started when I switched from full synthetic to mineral (must be coincidence?). So to that end (other than putting new fibres in) should I put heavier bolts in the flyout arms to make it engage sooner or heavier spring to clamp it better before the lockout does its thing. Or just stop being lazy.
  6. Whistling at idle. Further inspection shows 3 major cracks in the headers. My god the engine is rock solid but everything else cracks on this bike. Admittedly the little waategate pipe brace was shoddy but the other cracks surprised me. What is best stratagy to fix them so they don't come back. fusion weld them and then make a plate/patch to cover them? I'm wary of making a big brace over the area as if it cracks again it could hide the crack or make it hard to access it.
  7. Not been on a while so a quick update. Solved most issues. Have stuck with current pump walbro gsl392 mounted externally again. Using a new bandit 6 tank I picked up for peanuts on Eblag, used a td04 turbo drain where the petcock goes and added a return to the tank. Pump itself mounted low to give it a bit of pressure on the suction side and seems to be running great. Have made a 4th version of the turbo sump. this one is attached by oil hose only which gives it a little bit of movement to vibrate without cracking anything. The new tank looked so good I painted the half fairings to match (spray can job mind). Had it out at Rockingham last weekend and while I may have been lacking in talent the bike sure wasn't lacking in performace. Oil temperature still gets bloody high in traffic (the big oil cooler located near the headers exchanges heat the opposite direction at slow speeds) 135 degrees measured at the sump. I think that falls just inside the ok range for a good fully synthetic but I'm going to try and get a fan onto the oil cooler as well.
  8. I'm using a TD04 - the saab one which is slightly bigger than the subaru and mitsubishi evo one. It spools up very quickly and I reckon its perfect for a road bike. Would use bigger if I wanted a dedicated top speed machine.
  9. Good point but that's only a mapping issue if the injectors can keep up
  10. What about putting this on a standard tank: https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR-600-750-K4-K5-Fuel-Pump-2004-2005-Petrol/112760737610?hash=item1a41104f4a:g:BsUAAOSwKXdaX4T- And then replacing the pump with this: https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23908176-quantum-255lph-performance-fuel-pump-for-suzuki-gsx-r600-2004-2007-replaces-suzuki-15100-01h00-15100-01h00-e00.html?ref=category:335669 In tank regulator eliminates return line.
  11. good idea but the hole is too small. Also not the lowest bit of the tank
  12. Im at 225bhp and pretty happy with that with a little headroom for say 250. Maybe its not such an idea....would be such a nice packaged solution too
  13. Right I've been lazy over the winter trying to save a bit of £ and there's far too much salt on the roads to make me want to ride anyway. I'm thoroughly annoyed with my multiple attempts to get the fuel system right and thinking of hitting the restart button (and make fuel system OEM as I can). I was thinking of fitting a bandit 1250 tank and pump. I'm not sure it will fit but looks like it would need minimum modification to do so. Then decap my injectors to bring flow rate in around 800cc/min. Bandit 1250 pump has one outlet and no return so I presume it has internal FPR @ 3 bar or so. Obviously will need to redo my mapping etc. Will a stock bandit pump actually move enough fuel for turbo application. The injectors will deliver loads of fuel but the pump needs to get it there. That said I suspect most pumps will deliver higher than intended flow rate much easier than higher than intended pressure.
  14. Anyone per chance test fitted a fuel injected bandit 1250 tank onto a b12 frame? Been looking at pictures and they look pretty similar. I would expect to have to make a new back bracket but it would be nice easy step to fuel injection if the front end just slotted in ok. (I want to completely redo the fuel system on my turbo bandit using as many oem bits as possible).
  15. I'm wondering if the fuel return right next to the filter sock in the tank is a bad idea. Thinking the fuel might be aerated when it returns and doing no good releasing it next to the pump inlet. Regardless I think the pump is completely toast now. Took it out for a go today and it ran lean a couple of times so I stayed off boost completely and it would periodically just go super lean (18:1 AFR) and I'd have to stop for a few minutes, then restart and it would be ok for a few more minutes. Barely made it home. New pump time and I think I'll run a hose for the return inside the tank to keep it well away from the filter sock. Bike is being such a bloody tease when its so close to being awesome!
×
×
  • Create New...