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Just the standard set of four gauges with vacuum hose. Neat tip. Will try that.

So pulled Brian out from the back of the garge, as its 4 weeks to the welsh classic Bike festival and track day, thought I d better see if it runs after 7 months With a new battery and some fresh super unleaded it fired up eventually, went done the by pass and back using my universal number plate This just reminded me how small and uncomfortable it is!! Its great and i love it but its just to small for a fully grown adult!! So I have decided that this will be the last run out and then ill let it go to someone whose child sized Anyone want to come and have look at it, ill be at Angelsey for both days 25/26th may.

I've heard many stories of bikes running poorly with pod filters (espceially single pods), but not at idle. The draw is so low it shouldn't matter. Plus there's no airflow issues because you're stationary at idle. I run an 1100EFE motor in a GS750 frame and also use K&Ns (twin ovals) and have never had an issue like this. Maybe the guy with the 82 GSX hadn't rejetted the carbs to run without the airbox... What are you using to balance them? Might be worth putting some gauges on when it's doing this and see if one carb is dropping when warm.

I do have another set of cv carbs on the shelf from the older gs850, but they are in no shape to be run as they sit now. They need a complete overhaul. Maybe I should just order some parts and get to work on them. They weren't ultrasonic cleaned as my cleaner is dead (just ordered parts to repair it though). But all the jets are new, and I made sure to blow brake cleaner through all the circuits to check that they where open. Which they all where. I also posted about this in a classic motorcycle group on facebook over here and one guy replied that he had a 82 1100 gsx that would behave exactly the same! And his problems disappeared after refitting the original airfilter box. I don't have the standard box, is there some other way to simulate this? Socks over the air filters? Sponges inside? Taping off a portion of the inlet??

This doesn't sound to me like an issue caused by compression. If it were me, I'd try another set of carbs on it first. Sounds like you've already done all the things that would idenitfy the usual issues. If it works with different carbs, you know it's the carbs. You might have some sort of blockage in one of the fuel circuits responcible for idling. It take it you have completely striped and (ultrasonic) cleaned the carbs?

Looks very similar to this Harris Gs1000. Sadly not my bike just out of my picture collection. Tis a beauty and nice that they kept the GS 1000 motor . Looks like `H` section Dymags, could be wrong

Gonna do another compression test today and try to add some oil to the cylinders see what happens

We need bigger OSS banners.

Long stroke 750 barrels, pistons, and head, bolt on power, whilst keeping the original bottom end. No messing with DVLA that way. or, keep the 600 head, so carbs and airbox all line up.

I had some caliper brackets expertly made by Spondon in the mid-80s to fit their 4 pot calipers to Suzuki forks. The brackets were made from 10mm ally and the threaded bits were helicoiled, not cut directly in the ally. Mr Bob told me these were "fuckin' stronger than threading directly into the ally" .

Was checked when the carbs where disassembled and later when I adjusted the needle height. Pops, true, but the exhaust is a straight through exhaust so pops and bangs aren't uncommon since there is no dampening around 100-110 psi EDIT: okay, so I see in the service manual now on gsarchive that standard is 128-171psi. Limit is 100psi. Out of the many indicators of malconditions the only one that sticks out to me is "poor sealing of valves" as the piston rings where replaced and cylinders honed when I bought the engine but not the valves, they where just lapped. But they didn't look good and should have been replaced but time and money wasn't available at the time. Have we reached the consensus that low compression is to blame for this? Valves and poor sealing does pop up under "Engine idles poorly" and "Engine is hard to start" Perhaps cams are misaligned? I Think I should have another look at that too

He’s right you know. I also stripped a thread in a Nissin 4 pot caliper. @Pegleg( at the time) had the correct timesert kit to very kindly help me out. If you speak to him nicely he may be able to assist you. The repaired caliper only ever saw track use and was all good for the remainder of my custodianship of the bike.

AP calipers have some kind of insert in them from stock so if there's enough meat, go for it.

what where the compression readings out of interest ?

It's a carb issue not a blocked oil filter .... OK so got a high RPM using the pilots .... adjusted down with the throttle slide control and yet still hunting. ....and you reckon the diaphrams are ok ( how have you checked this ? ) POPs = Air leaks ....exhaust or manifold ....or switched ignition leads possibly . I'm deja view on similar issues a few years ago n here ...which was a crappy throttle cable sticking .

I did that today as well. Looked alright. Checked valves probably a couple of times last year they're all within spec. Checked float level when they where apart last time so that's in spec. Also replaced all o rings on carbs.

Give the engine a service, oil/filter/tappets etc. Pointless trying to set carbs otherwise.

Check that you've got 12Vdc with respect to ground (engine) at the orange/white (?) Wires to the coils. These can go either way round. The black & white (?) Wires are earth side triggers to the points or electronic ignition back plate.

I think the next step is to check the engine, do a compression test just to rule out a mechanical issue.

I space the vack of the tank up 1/2" on my 7/11 builds.

They where fine before winter and it had the same idling issues then so

did you check the condition of the diaphragms ?

Yes. And yes.

did you have the vacuum pipe plugged when you had the tank off ? and did you have some sort of fuel supply as its running ? got to keep the float bowls full at all times

So I did that, I turned them all in, started it and set the idle adjustment screw so that it would idle without me holding the throttle. So now we're at 1500 or so rpm's. I turn them out 1/4 turn and wait for the rpm's to rise and they do and I continue to do so until its screaming at the neighbours at 3.3k rpms at which I then adjust the idle rpm down again. Perhaps this was wrong? should I just have continued upping the mixture until it doesn't go any higher? I have neighbours all around and 3k + rpms is frigging loud on a 4-1 with no db killer so I'm genuienly concerned about complaints at this point. Regardless, back to somewhat reasonable rpms and I try to adjust some more but it doesn't get much response. And now begins the weirdness: I adjust the idle to a damn steady 1000rpms and it holds it for i dont know a minute or two and I'm all giggity then all of a sudden there's a little pop and it starts to race off up up until its now at 2200 at which point I back out the adjuster to bring it down again, then it almost dies and I turn it in and get it sitting at 1000 again but that only lasts for a short time before it dies. And several times I got it sitting at a lower idle, 1000 one time, 1200 another time, but all of the times it only last a short while before it either races off the moon or just dies. I did all this with the tank removed and i watched the adjuster sometimes as i turned it and i turn it a little bit; nothing. A little bit more; still nothing, just a hair more: too much! Would be pulling my hair out if only I had some left! No that's not sticking, returns as it should and there's freeplay