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  1. Today
  2. Sounds like the wastegate is opening already at 10psi and then there is boost creep at higher rpm. A boost controller should help building boost faster. It will help to keep the gate closed until you hit the target. But it can't help with the creep, if the gate can't flow enough to keep the boost down then the controller can't do anything to lower the boost. Any way, if you feel that the turbo is spooling up slower than it should it's good to check carefully all possible exhaust and boost leaks. Especially exhaust leaks will affect a lot on spool-up.
  3. Rebuilding the carbs on my gs1000l. Got I bought it from paid some guy $300 to "clean" the carbs. Well long story short I'm realizing the reason it had a 1-3 misfire was not the points or condensers but the fact that half the jets are clogged as well as the enrichment circuit fuel orifice, I've only done #1 so far but I'm guessing it's the same problem in # 3, and probably mild clogging in #4 as #2 is the hottest header upon starting and trying to warm it up. Anyways, I also figured out why the throttle sticks wide open, which is because there was some damage to #1 slide, a small protrusion that caught on the cylinder edge. Also damage to the bushing that the needle valve goes into. Looks like maybe someone dropped the throttle with a screwdriver in the carb or something. My question though, is that little bit of damage to that "sleeve" if you will going to cause atomization issues with the needle jet? The part that screws in from the bottom (not sure what you call that) is undamaged and the actual "bore" of that sleeve where the needle touches it is undamaged, it's just that little ring that sticks up into the barrel. I pulled off all the loose metal but can't do anything else with it aside from pressing in a new sleeve or a new carb body. span widget
  4. If you ever use a boost controler, use one with a ball and spring. These build up boost way faster. Bleed valves just bleed/leak, this takes longer to actuate the waste gate. Ball spring controllers you recognise on nipples on the bottom, and one 90 degrees on the side
  5. Interesting... The more revs, the more power, but it never gets really exciting.. With the TD04 it starting to lift the front wheel in 4th gear at 110km/h, now it needs to do 160km/h before it does lift the front wheel, just to give an idea. It looks like there's a boost leak, but there isn't, I think..
  6. I'm going blow through on this one.
  7. GSX 1400 and GSXR/bandit seem to have identical dimensions at the exhaust port (42 ID 58 spacing) at least on what i've compared in my garage
  8. Yesterday
  9. Assuming draw-through ? Do you actually want 90s? 2 of the 4 cylinders need to go into the front part of the collector- this means the need a little less than 90degrees? see pics for reference:
  10. Same turbo and does similar. Mine starts boost about 3500rpm, stays at about 10psi for ages but doesn't hit 1 bar until 8-9k. (14psi spring and I do get boost creep sometimes). I'm sure it used to build boost a lot quicker but I'm questioning that. To those that know, would a softer, say 6psi spring and a digital boost controller alter that characteristic letting the controller cap the limit higher, i.e 15psi etc?
  11. Pipe layout very similar to truls build in the forced induction section as so expertly demonstrated.
  12. I've made a start, main holdup is the flanges at the mo. Using 1.5 mm wall 304 stainless tube 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Pre bent 90 tubes to get everything in the right place where needed. I will put up pics when some substantial progress has been made...
  13. Have you made your headers yet? pics please
  14. Here's what i had made, 54 to 62 bolt spacing :
  15. Tony is right, if you can find a good set Gsr 1100 slingshot are the easiest to fit as lots of parts are common between Gsxr and bandit..and they are lonngggggg fitting the R1 front end is all documented in the Members project section, “Number 25”
  16. a popular front end is off the GSXR1100 from the early 90's. but finding a good set of forks is getting harder, but a pretty easy swop.
  17. Niceone, cheers. Could be helpful but the pipes I'm using for my particular header design are 38mm dia, with gsx 11 stud spacing. 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Cheers.
  18. Got the laser cut file for GSX 1400 exhaust flanges if you want since I had nothing with the engine i bought and obviously needed a set for the turbo header
  19. Best way is to pop the whole 17 digit number into a vehicle vin decoder via the interwebs. Just six digits to go by is lacking somewhat. Have you the registration number? If so, just pong it into a mot history check search on the dvla website and it should bring up the model no and mot history from 2005 onwards.
  20. Hello…I have a GS1000…..frame number 513550. could anyone tell me the model please….cheers Pogster
  21. Thanks for the heads up on the K series forks and appreciate the photos ! I'm quite small and weigh 56kg / 124lbs. Haven't bought the front end yet actually, just some available bikes that had USD forks at a nearby breaker shop, so I'm open to suggestions that could make this first modification easy on me. If you don't mind me asking, how'd you find installing that R1 front end ? Really digging the look of it.
  22. I've contacted delkevik to see if they can supply gsx 1100 flanges as well, but I have a feeling they will be 38mm pipe diameter like their systems but obviously can be enlarged. Alternatively, I'll just get some laser cut if not...
  23. Various Zuma Parts books are Here https://www.bike-parts-suz.com/suzuki-motorcycle/1200-MOTO/GSX/1999/GSX1200X-E4-/1286 https://www.bike-parts-suz.com/suzuki-motorcycle/750-MOTO/GSX/1999/GSX750X-E4-/1560 you can then cross-ref the part no on various other sites Fowlers for example
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